You can download a “spec sheet” listing all our beautiful table designs with color choices, dimensions, and prices at https://carolinagametables.com/about
Table Construction Built Strong to Last Long
Carolina Game Tables are built with a frame of solid Indonesian mahogany. This particular variety of the wood is plantation grown and government monitored to insure it’s never over harvested or becomes endangered. The legs, side rails, and all major supports of the table are made of this strong, solid wood.
The physical assembly of the table uses screws, nuts and bolts, glue, and mortise/tenon construction. Additionally, there are strong steel braces at each corner for increased strength. Each leg is connected to the table frame with three bolts through that steel reinforced corner. (The furniture industry usually uses two bolts at each corner, but we know gamers!) Each table leg also has an adjustable leveler in case the table might be set on an uneven surface. All of this works together to make a solid stable playing and dining surface. We don’t want any wobbles when playing skill games!
Cup holders are made from aluminum and are 3 inches deep, with an inside diameter of 3 1/4 inches. They are easily removable for washing. When the cup holder is removed, a hole exists in your table base so condensation drips to the ground. This also makes for a pretty awesome handle when moving the table base, we’ve learned.
In short, a Carolina Game Table is built using the same engineered manufacturing and strong construction techniques of any fine dining room table—because it is! It just happens to be a great game table as well.
The table top is strong and super engineered. Allow us to geek out a bit… The outer layers of the top are MDF for support surrounding a honeycomb filler providing both strength and weight reduction. All of this is covered in a mahogany veneer matching the rest of your table. The underside of your table top has fabric lining the edges—to protect the wood it covers—and a fabric-covered lip to fit inside the play area to secure it. The middle of the underside is finished with the same mahogany veneer. (You can take the top of the Coffee Game Table and flip it over on an ottoman for a second play area! Just be gentle. The underside was not meant for rolling dice and may dent over time. We just think it’s cool our customers thought of this.)
The reason for this construction, as opposed to mahogany slabs, is twofold. First, it makes the top lighter than if it were solid hardwood so it’s easier to pick up and move. Our heaviest table top piece—Tablezilla—weighs about 60 pounds yet is about 5 feet by 4 feet by 1 inch.
Second and more importantly, hardwoods will expand and contract based on humidity conditions, especially when one dimension of the wood is notably thinner than the others (such as the thickness of the table top compared to its length and width). This issue could potentially result in the top no longer syncing up with the rest of the table. Using MDF with a matching veneer over the honeycomb construction avoids much of the issues caused by variances in humidity.
Two Piece Table Top Design for Tablezilla, Streamer, Banquet, and (optional) Dining Game Tables. The two piece construction is necessary on these larger tables to make it easier to maneuver. The two sturdy pieces overlap by one inch in a layered seam to keep crumbs from your play area and to provide stability.
This table top design has been in place since summer 2019. Tables built prior to this date may want to order one of these new table tops (but you may want to request matte finish. As you can see in the video below, our tables are made with a high gloss finish now unless you request otherwise. Read below why). Since we started using this design we’ve had no reports of dining tops bowing or warping. That’s amazing!
Watch how our two piece top works in the short video below. We recommend placing the edge of the top piece in the middle, then lowering with the fingertip holds gently. Reverse to pick up (hopefully you won’t have to step over a dog like Bethany did in the video).
The last wooden component of the table is the interior play area. Since it is completely covered by fabric, requires no finishing, and is completely supported by the hardwood of the frame, it’s made of thick, strong plywood which helps reduce cost of the table and overall weight, resulting in lowered shipping costs as well.
The play area rests three inches below the surface of the table on all game table designs except the Coffee Game Table, which is only two inches deep because of its narrower profile.
Our factory prides itself on a finished product…they put a mahogany veneer on the plywood under the table so anyone crawling under it sees a completely finished product all around!
Stain- Rip- and Fade-Resistant Strong Fabric
We use hardy commercial grade velveteen and glue it to the plywood used in the interior game play area. The fabric is then wrapped around the plywood and bolted up into the table frame. The combination of glue, wrapping, and bolting means the fabric should not “rub up” over time.
If you are hoping to add LED lighting, power strips, USB ports, or otherwise adjust your play area, go for it! Simply drill through any section of the fabric-covered play area to pass through cords. We do not add lighting ourselves because we do not want to add the expense of UL testing and packaging. It’s a fairly easy DIY project, or you can hire an electrician.
The velveteen is the kind most hotels use in their lobbies. It’s completely synthetic and there is no padding underneath to trap and hold odors. The fabric is rated “W” for water-based cleaners only. You don’t need to buy any special dry cleaning agents or pool table “felt cleaner” and in fact, you should not use them! The strong fabric is rip-resistant and stain-resistant.
The nap on the fabric plays tricks with the lighting in a lot of our photos (most come from our customers), which explains the variance of color. It’s the same shade of color, we promise! It’s lighter where the nap of the fabric is pulled one way, and darker where it’s pushed another. The truest shade of color is the darker hue shown.
Here’s a beautiful example:
The factory uses Indonesian mahogany to build the table, a pale hardwood which can be finished from our lightest Elm to darkest Sagamore Hill. Regardless of the color chosen, the surface you touch is a polyurethane lacquer sealing the finish.
We use two-part polyurethane lacquer only. This is the strongest, highest quality, and most environmentally safe option available. Some varnishes can release formaldehyde fumes for up to a month after application! We apply several layers of this lacquer, resulting in a high gloss finish for a beauty which will last. You may request matte finish at no charge, but please understand the high gloss finish is a best practice implementation.
To clean the wood of your table, simply use a clean cloth with warm water and a mild soap. Some dusting sprays have harsh chemicals in them which could damage the finish, so it’s best to avoid them. We have a whole page dedicated to cleaning your table here.
We also recommend protecting your table top with tablecloths, placemats, or coasters to ensure it lasts as long as possible. And use a protective barrier like a hot pad or trivet when placing hot items like the Thanksgiving turkey on it. Watch for condensation from things like chilled wine bottles or flower vases, not just hot or cold drinks, and use a coaster. If wax drips, scrape it up using a credit card instead of a knife. And finally, avoid chunky jewelry, rolling metal dice, or using a laptop directly on the finished table surface, as those are some of the most common factors (after pets and children) for making dents and scratches.
Remember this is a fine piece of furniture! Treat it well, and it will last you for years to come.
Finish and Fabric Options
Clicking on the finish and fabric image below will take you to a larger version.